Easy Crochet Doll Outfit {universal size pattern}

Elise received a new doll from her grandma that was dressed in cute pink pajamas. She wanted to take her out to play with her at the playground, but insisted that she needs to be dressed properly. Firstly, that she wouldn't be cold outside, and secondly, one shouldn't go out in their pajamas :) 

So I was up for a quick crochet project from left-over yarn. For such small things as doll outfits, I prefer gradient wool. It's the perfect way how to add many colors without having to switch yarn and it also allows minor imperfections :)

EASY CROCHET DOLL OUTFIT CROCHET PATTERN PDF
EASY CROCHET DOLL OUTFIT CROCHET SCHEMES PDF

The doll outfit consist of a beanie, a one-piece and two slippers. The pattern describes the outfit exactly as I did it and also includes tips how to adjust the sizes for your doll. So for reference, our doll was 30cm tall (12”). You can find the pattern below or you can also download it as .pdf

Materials
- crochet hook 5.5mm / US size: I 

- bulky yarn (7 wpi):  Perla by Four Seasons Gründl, 100% Polyester

- 2 or 3 button

- yarn needle

Abbreviations

mc - magic circle	dc - double crochet
ch - chain	st - stitch
sc - single crochet	sl st - slip stitch
hdc - half double crochet	sp - space
{ } - reapeat	[ ] - stitch count

Doll Beanie
- First dc is always ch2 
- Each Round ends with a sl st

Round 1: mc with 10dc

Round 2: sl st between next two dc, {2dc between dc} * 10

Round 3: sl st in space between 2dc, {2dc, ch1} *10

Round 4: sl st in ch1-space, {2dc in ch1-space, ch1}*10

Round 5 - Round 6: repeat R4

Round 7: {hdc in each dc, hdc in ch1-space} around

Smaller Doll Beanie: Start with less dc in R1 (eg. mc with 6dc) or skip the ch1-increase in R3 

Larger Doll Beanie: Continue increasing in R4: add an extra ch or dc : “3dc in ch1-space, ch1” or “2dc in ch1-sp, ch2”.  If you make the hat larger, don’t forget to add an extra row for the height of the hat.

Doll one-piece

Round 1: ch30, join with sl st, do not twist 

< Make the necessary number of chains to wrap around the hips (the widest part) of the doll >

Round 2: ch1, sc in each ch, sl st in ch1 [30st]

Round 3: ch2, dc in each st, sl st in ch2 [30st]

From now on do not join Rounds with sl st.

Round 4 - Round 8: ch2, dc in each st, turn [30st

Make enough dc-rounds to reach from the hips to the armpits.

Round 9: ch1, 6sc, ch3, skip 4st, 10dc, ch3, skip 4st, 6sc. 

< Here you make openings for the arms. The important part is to make the openings symmetrical, so if you split your work into two halves, they need to be exact opposites of each other. In my case it was “6sc, ch3, skip 4st, 5sc” and “5sc, skip 4st, ch3, 6sc”. Tip: It’s usually best if the number of chains is one less than the skipped stitches (in my case, ch3 and 4 skipped st).  This is a trial-and-error round, so try out one version and if it doesn’t quite fit, just adjust it accordingly. Fortunately, dolls tend to be pretty small, so it’s a question o only couple of stitches :) >

Round 10: ch1, sc in each st and ch [24st]

Round 11: ch2, 4dc, 7dc together, 6dc, 7dc together,4dc < 

< The 7dc together form the sleeve cap. In my case it was 7dc-tog because my arm hole was made by ch3. So it was 2dc to the side, 3dc above ch3, 2dc to the side again >

Optional R12: If your doll has a longer neck, I would suggest an extra sc round. In my case it wasn’t necessary.


Finishing

Fasten off and leave a really long tail. 

Use the tail to embroider around the sides of the one-piece using the whip stitch (I guess it’s not really a stitch if you are not sewing together two pieces...simply “spiral” around the corner stitches). It gives the one-piece a nice finished look plus helps to hold its shape. Start working around the neck and down on one side. When you reach the bottom, sew the it together in the middle, to create two opening for the legs. I sewed together about 2cm (1”).  Now work your way back up the other side, finishing at the neck where you started. 

Select the right size of the buttons and attach them on one side of the one-piece. The beginning ch2 of the rounds will serve as button holes.

Slippers

Round 1: mc with 10dc, sl st in first dc[10st]

Round 2: ch2, dc in each st, sl st in 1st dc [10st]

Round 3: ch2, 6dc, turn [6st]

Round 4: ch2, 6dc, turn [6st]

From now on work in a spiral, do not join rounds with sl st, simply continue crocheting into the first st of the previous round

Round 5: ch1, sc in each st, continue on the sides of the dc, sc in the remaining 4dc from R2, sc on the sides of the dc [18st]

Round 6: sc in each sc [18st]

Round 7: {sc 2 together} around [9st]

Round 8: sc in each st [9st]

If you want the slipper to be thinner/thicker then remove/add more dc in R1 (eg. mc with 12dc)
If you want the slipper to be shorter/longer then remote/add more dc rounds (R3, R4)
If your doll has a thick leg, then in R7, do not sc 2 together around the whole circumference of the slipper (eg only {sc, sc2tog} around)

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